Humble Pie: with Sophie Pickering

You know those people that you occasionally meet in the lineup or checking the surf? You get along so well they could be your best mate even though you’ve never met them before? That’s Sophie Pickering.

She’s the quintessential Aussie shredder with the style and attitude to match. She is an icon in women’s bodyboarding (even if she doesn’t realise it) and she’s inspiring bodyboarders the world over after her performance at the Shark island Challenge (SIC).

I got to sit down with Sophie to chat all things bodyboarding, SIC, her recent trip to Teahupo’o and how she stays so humble despite her unwavering pursuit of the biggest, baddest waves around.

Sophie at Aus Pipe. Image: Alex Pickering

Q. Tell us about your life growing up and how you got into bodyboarding?
I grew up on the mid north coast of NSW, in a small inland town called Dorrigo. It was a scenic hour drive down to the coast, along “waterfall way”. I always loved the beach, and we would spend summer holidays on the coast. I was always on a bodyboard, having the time of my life in the white wash! I always wanted to be a surfer chick and dreamt of living by the beach one day. As a family we went on a lot of Outback trips, crossing the desert and camping under the stars. I wouldn’t change a single thing! My parents gave my brother and I the itch to explore, so it’s pretty funny these days when we all message the family group chat. My parents were in NZ, my husband and I were on our honeymoon in Tahiti and my brother was on a random yacht somewhere near Ningaloo.
I got a mini mal for my 10th birthday, and when I went to high school on the coast, I’d catch 3 busses to and from school. Waterfall way on the Dorrigo mountain was beautiful, but with only a handful of kids making the trek to the coast for school, we had a mini bus, which my mini mal couldn’t fit on. I chose surfing for school sport, and was so excited to be able to get to the beach more often. My brother had already started bodyboarding, so he suggested I give it a try as it was much easier to transport. My dad actually got into it at the same time. He is such a charger and never seems to have any fear. There’s 2 waves down here that I’ve banned him from surfing haha, if it’s big and sketchy, he’s turning around to charge it before I get a chance to say “No”!

Sophie and her Dad sharing a party wave

Q.What does a typical day look like for you when you're chasing a swell?
Coffee first! Then it depends where we are and if we have the ski. I always love the anticipation when you’re checking a spot at first light and you can’t quite see what the waves are doing. Of course getting skunked happens a lot, but it makes the good days even better.
My husband (Alex) is the biggest frother I know (tied with my Dad!) so he is always hooting and screaming, which gets everyone really amped up. I have so many epic memories of coming around a headland to seeing an absolute bomb, Alex’s skis driving kicks up another notch and I know it’s going to be a great day.
We always end up camping in the car with our 2 kelpies, Milo and Molly and talk about the day and the waves around a campfire. Alex always ends up with some pretty epic photos (you should see his hard drive!!).

Q. What drew you to surfing big waves and slabs?
Even as I kid I was an adrenaline junky. So I think it was only a matter of time until I found a sport that I became obsessed with. I tried lots of sports but bodyboarding was different. Surfing with my brother and my dad was probably a big influence, because they never sooked me up in the surf. It was always fun, and seeing them turn around and go anything drove me to do the same. When I finished school my boyfriend (now husband!) and I moved down to the south coast. I did a few state titles down here in Kiama, and decided I would live down here one day. I was never too fussed on the comp itself, but more so exploring the other waves on offer. One year I actually won the state titles, but I just wanted the presentation to hurry up so Dad and I could go and chase a slab a little further up the coast.
I love the challenge, and how humbling slabs are. One moment you think you’re charging, and killing it… the next, you’re standing in ankle deep water with a 6 footer coming for you. You get knocked down, and in my case, wipe out more often than not. But it always keeps me coming back for more. Chasing those visions of a barrel, the anticipation and working on skills bit by bit. It all comes together, and everyone is always frothing when it’s big and slabby. I’m really inspired by a lot of the talented bodyboarders down here, and I’m lucky to continue to learn from them.

Q. How do you mentally prepare yourself in the lead up to a big swell event or surfing a consequential slab wave?
It’s funny, the first few years that we lived on the south coast, I was super anxious for every swell! There are so many gnarly waves down here, which was a huge change from the mid north coast of NSW.
I would always put myself under so much pressure and it would always build up in my head. I would actually hope that the swell faded away, but then at the same time I hoped it would be pumping and I’d be out there. It was like a constant internal tug of war.
It took me a while to learn how to take the pressure off myself, and remind myself this is all just for fun.
My approach is completely different now. I don’t hover on the forecast too much, (my husband does that!) So I just go along for the adventure and see what happens!
It’s sometimes tricky to know when to push myself, but also know when it’s out of my league.
I usually ask myself, can I handle this? If the answer is “I don’t know” then it’s probably worth jumping in to find out, and if it’s yes…. I’m already out there! If it’s No, I’ll set a goal to try to get out of my comfort zone in one way or another. Whether it’s just tackling the rock jump, paddling out, being in the line up and learning what waves to take, or hanging on the ski and watching how others surf the wave, it all helps build confidence. If I’m feeling good, and that I can handle it, I’ll have a go!

Love from Teahupoo
I just got back from Tahiti, and I have always dreamt of surfing Teahupoo. But it’s safe to say I got absolutely humbled. I watched the conditions for a long time before deciding to have a go. I watched where they would take off, what the sets were like, where they’d go when they wiped out, etc. I paddled to the line up, greeted everyone and took my time to settle in. It was really hard to choose which waves were good. It was far from a perfect day, and was pretty west. The forecast was 6-8ft, dropping to 4-6. But all morning there hadn’t been anything over 6ft. I had heard this kind of forecast can be sketchy, as it shifts between the ledges. Anyway, my husband of 2 weeks and I were sitting on the west bowl with one other bodyboarder. I was there for like 10 mins when an 8ft wave came charging at us from the west, out of no where! Makes sense, because it comes from such deep water, and being so west it stands up last second, but to see it with my own eyes was intense. I was deeper than Alex, but I was further out as we duck dove it. I got under it but it pulled me back, and when I came up he was so much further in front of me, and of course, the last thing I ever wanted to happen at Chopes, happened. I was on the inside with no where to go, facing this 8-10ft, beautiful beast. I locked eyes with Alex and shook my head, I knew I was fucked haha. I accepted I was facing the scariest moment of my life, and just switched a button in my mind to be calm. Alex yelled out, “You’ll be alright!”, then he turned and had to paddle out and duck dive this one too. Luckily Alex nailed it, but the poor guy next to him got sucked over, and hit his head so hard on the reef he apparently started having a seizure. 
It was the biggest, bluest wall of water I’ve ever seen. I didn’t even try to properly dive under it, I just ducked under and stayed calm. I lost my board straight away (never saw it again!), and when I watched the replay, we worked out it held me under for around 18 seconds, which is a long time for me!! I was bracing for impact, but it never came. I eventually came up, sticking my hand out of the water to help me find the surface. Then I realised I hadn’t moved. I was facing the mountains, but couldn’t stand up. I turned around and there was another wave right there, I locked eyes with a surfer who was in the channel, hanging there to see if I was ok. He pointed at me to swim to the channel, which was helpful because in that moment I was panicking, I didn't want to end up in the close out section. If another one came at that size, I’m not sure I could stay so calm again, or hold my breath again. I swam under the next 2 which were much smaller, to the safety of the channel.
It was a big fat serving of humble pie. I think Teahupoo was looking out for me in a way, as I was unscathed. Looking back, I’m proud of myself for being so calm, I even laughed about it as soon as I got to the channel. But it’s definitely a wake up call and has pushed me to train more. If there was another one, I definitely was not prepared for it.

Sophie about to get blown up at Chopes. Image: Maenea Fabisch

Q. Give us some insight into being a women in a male dominated sport.  What is the vibe like for you in the line up?
If it’s a more consequential wave, everyone is really nice and supportive! I’m so grateful for the community on the South Coast, and I’ve learnt so much from the people around me. Everyone’s looking out for me on the bigger days, and always try to help me push my limits.
The worst experiences I’ve had are always on the smaller days, from guys that I’m pretty sure are bigger pussies than me haha. I used to be quiet and avoid them, but now I usually try to hit them with a comment they don’t see coming, or drop in on them haha.


Q. You recently competed in the first ever women’s event at the iconic Shark Island Challenge.  Tell us how you felt when you got the call up and what the lead up to the event was like?
When I got the call, I said yes before I could even process the question. Part of me was thinking, “what on earth did you just sign up to” and the other part of me was like, “fuck yes! As if you’d ever say no!”
I was shocked because I wasn’t expecting it at all. I was keen to head back up and watch the event again, and I assumed Lilly would be back to keep the boys on their toes again this year! So to be told I would be in a 20 minute final with her, was just a crazy dream come true. Her knowledge of that wave, ability and “full send” attitude was going to be really inspiring to be around.
The lead up was a whirlwind! Lilly and I were crowd funded by Women of the Waves Co, and it was really touching to see so many people donate, I couldn’t believe the support. I’d always felt it in the water, but having it cemented into one event was wild.
Of course there were a few people telling I was going to die, haha but again, I’ll see them in the white wash sometime! ;)
With no chicks entering the trials, I wasn’t sure if they would still run with just Lilly and I, but the organisers were really excited to give women the opportunity. I can definitely understand why others said no, or didn’t enter trials, but I really hope that next year we can get some more numbers. I’m hoping that maybe chicks will see me out there this year, and realise they can do it too. Of course, it’s a wave of risk and consequence, but it’s a great opportunity to work on your skills throughout the year and have a crack.
I felt the pressure of this in the lead up, but I just kept myself focussed on the bigger picture for women’s bodyboarding. When Lilly was unable to surf, I thought for sure they’d pull the pin, but they were determined, and when Rio put her hand up to come over, it was super exciting! I’ve known Rio for a few years and I’d aways heard how calm she was in big waves. We’ve debriefed on our sessions over the years, and her Women of the Waves platform has brought a lot of women boogers together. So it worked out in the end!

Sophie at Shark Island Challenge. Image: Ian Bird

Q. What was your preparation like for Shark Island?
With such a long waiting period, it was really hard, but my main focus was staying strong mentally and being confident.
I was doubting myself a lot at the start, sometimes wondering why I said yes. But I had so much support, and it was on us as women bodyboarders, to say yes to the challenge and take the opportunity, and hopefully inspire the years to come.
I tried to get up to the island as much as I could, which only ended up being a few times! It’s completely different to any wave I’ve surfed, and I still havent scored it at its best yet (or it’s worst!). The locals were really helpful and gave me so much advice. They welcomed me every time and would explain how to read the waves and which ones to take. A lot of these guys definitely learnt the hard way, so I was really grateful for their support and encouragement, and for letting me have the good ones!!
In terms on heat strategy, I just wanted to make the most of it. 20 minutes, 2 people, 1 of the best waves in the world! I actually never really thought about the possibility of winning, (which is probably why I was so shocked at the presentation hahah) I just wanted to come out unscathed and have a good time. 
I also did laps at the pool, I love swimming, so it was a good way to maintain fitness. The whole time I swam I would think about Shark Island and what could happen. The whole experience really motivated me to just chase bodyboarding even harder!

Q. Your first wave was an absolute belter and you looked like you were having a ball out there!  How do you stay calm in waves like that and in a competitive scenario?  
The SIC was such a wild experience. I was so lucky that the first wave came so quickly in the heat! It was good in a way because I didn’t have time to think, just paddle!
It was like someone else took over my body and surfed for me, felt all the hits on the reef and took the beat downs. The next day I definitely felt it all, and I couldn’t stay standing for too long, my back and my ribs were in so much pain.
I just knew how lucky I was to be able to surf out there with just one other person, so I had to make the most of it!
I was just having so much fun and I had so much adrenaline! All the closest people to me were either in the channel, on the headland, or watching online from around the world. I was nervous about being in the spotlight, and the headland was so packed, there were boats of people watching and lots on the channel. But every time Rio and I got a wave they would all cheer and scream, and they’d scream even louder if it was a close out!
It was crazy how tired I got though, I think because there were only 2 of us, and a ski lift out every time, it was like I’d wipeout, get flogged, then straight away I’m back out there paddling for another one. There was one I really wish I was in position for, and another one which I really just needed to paddle stronger in to, but I was so knackered. I was honestly just too busy to be freaking out or scared.

Sophie facing the beast at SIC 25. Image: Ian Bird

Q. Is competition something you enjoy or do you prefer free surfing?
I definitely prefer free surfing! I love the social side of competitions, and getting to be in the water with other women bodyboarders. Shark Island Challenge is completely different though. With a long waiting period, you know you’re going to get good waves, then to surf one of the best waves in Australia, with a handful of people? It’s a dream and an honour to be a part of.

Q. Your an inspiration to other women in the water and girls that are just getting started in the sport.  What advice do you have for other female bodyboarders wanting to get started in the sport or in competitive bodyboarding?
It’s crazy because I’ve just been doing my own thing, and have been inspired by so many women bodyboarders around the world before me. In my own personal goals, I have a long long way to go, but I would always look back at how far I’ve come. I think that’s really important to do, and to back yourself.
If I was talking to someone who wanted to get into bodyboarding, I would say DO IT!! Find a good crew to surf with, ask them for advice and enjoy every minute. In the line up, back yourself. If you take a wave and you wipe out, who cares! It was YOUR wave, do what you want on it. If you’ve waited, it’s your turn, then no one is more deserving.

Q. Final question: Favourite wave and why?
There are a few that come to mind, but I’d have to say Aussie Pipe. It’s so special. The locals are incredible, and you can feel how special it is. With the amount of wildlife that turn up, the beautiful colour of the water and the sun setting over the ocean and mountains, it’s just heaven. The locals, the location and the wave are all to be respected.
I have put in so much time out there now, that I finally feel comfortable in any conditions. It’s a place where I can reflect and I remember being so scared out there. So to realise after a few years and just committing to pushing myself, it’s now somewhere I don’t get scared of at all. There’s about 50 other waves that I can be scared shitless of instead now haha, but again, more time in the water, and I’ll get more and more comfortable!

Words by: Sophie Pickering @Sophie_jayne46

Edited by: Kylie Palmer @the.slablab.store @slab.magazine