Slabs & Shapes with Dylan Longbottom
When you hear the name Dylan Longbottom you immediately think of Australian big wave surfing royalty. From humble beginnings in Cronulla to a thriving board shaping business that is known the world over, Dylan has developed a life around the things that he loves, surfing big waves and shaping surfboards.
At 52 years old, Dylan is still chasing big waves, heaving slabs and waves of consequence, often alongside his daughter Summa and a tight nit crew of big wave free surfers. As well as hunting waves, Dylan runs a well known shaping company, Dylan Shapes, specialising in big wave and tow boards for the very waves that he has dedicated his life to.
Dylan offers a unique perspective on how passion and business can intersect successfully, how he still charges big waves after 50 and wipeouts that almost took his life.
Dylan under the hood of a heavy slab, Image*
Q. Dylan, tell our readers a little bit about yourself, where you grew up, and how you became one of the most prolific big wave board shapers in the country?
A. I was born in the Cronulla area and my father built boards there at Gordon & Smith, so i was very lucky in that respect. Then we moved to the South Coast where I spent my teenage years surfing the reefs and beachies along that coastline. This helped me progress my big wave surfing and where I started my shaping career 30 years ago.
Q. As a second generation surfer and board shaper, was there ever any other path on the cards for you?
A. I was aiming for a path on the Tour but the small waves on the WQS didn’t suit my style. I was lucky enough that my sponsor Billabong paid me as a freesurfer, which was the best! To do that alongside my shaping career was epic! But before that, I was a bricklayer, which taught me a lot about hard work.
Q. You've lived a life that many others could only dream about. Travelling the world and dedicating yourself to surfing slabs and big waves is one thing, but making a successful living out of that is another. Did you think, when you first started Dylan Shapes, that it would be as big as it is today?
A. No way did I think I’d end up where I am! However, I did dream of it and worked really hard to get here. I just kept chipping away at it and perfecting my craft. Surfing places like Teahupoo, Nazare and all the slabs in Australia and Indonesia was a great testing ground for me.
Chopes turning it on, Image *
Q. Your over 50 and still charging big slabs and monster waves. Waves of consequence that require not only mental fortitude and skills but also a high level of health and fitness. Is there anything in particular that you do to maintain this level of athleticism, or are you just genetically gifted?
A. I’m 52 years old and pinch myself sometimes when I’m out surfing some crazy waves. I try to keep myself as fit as possible and train nearly everyday. My nutrition is also super important, I’ve been a vego for 3 years now. Maintaining my mindset, which is the hardest to deal with when it gets big, comes with all the experience and knowledge I have learned over the years.
Q. You would have copped some heavy wipeouts in your time, is there one in particular that sticks out for you that you could share? And how did you recover mentally and physically from it?
I have 2 distincive worst wipeouts/scenarios:
At Nazare, I got caught inside where a 50 footer on first peak (right in front of the cliff) broke in front of me, I was so lucky to survive that one. That was my first near death experience, thankfully I got saved by my mate Antonio Silva in the nick of time. That was a 2 wave hold down.
I broke my ribs into pieces and punctured my lung in the Desert at this crazy slab a few years ago and decided to stay for a few days and not go to a hospital! I Was lucky again to survive the plane ride home and had to have major surgery.
Attempting to duck dive a monster, Image *
Q. What are your top tips for wave riders to keep them out in the water and thriving over 50?
Keeping as fit as possible is the key for the physical side of surfing any kind of heavy waves in your 50’s. You’ve also got to have the froth to actually want to do it!
Q. You have a connection with our local big wave/slab surfing scene and visit when there is a swell forecast. What keeps you coming back to South West Victoria?
A. I have a great connection with the SW Vic Slab Lords. They are very down to earth and I have made a heap of boards for them. We just connect as we all froth on the same waves. They also like the experience we can pass onto them. It’s always been a good vibe down there.
Q. Favorite Wave in the world and why?
A. I have many favourite waves in the World but to name my number ONE would be Apocalypse, a crazy funneling slab in Indonesia. It’s a perfect and crazy shaped barrel that is so challenging, with a closes-out section at the end!
* Images supplied by Dylan and photographed by: Yunus Khadar, Tim Bonython and Nick Green
Words by: Dylan Longbottom @dylanshapes
Edited by: Kylie Palmer @the.slablab.store @slab.lab.media
